EDWINSFORD

In 1803 a London antiquary spent several weeks travelling in South Wales. One day he crossed from Lampeter to Llandeilo, passing through Llansawel and Talley. He described what he saw in these words — "The sun had now dispersed the mists through which we set out, and shone direct on the vale: from its verdant level, high hills enjoying different degrees of cultivation, rose on every side; and under one of them, at the further end of the valley, the well whitened village [sc. Llansawel] sparkled through the intervening foliage. This valley was immediately succeeded by another called Edwinsford, a delightful spot . . . ".¹

The valley of the Cothi remains as attractive and romantic as ever it was, but the mansion-house of Edwinsford has sadly decayed — a prey to social change and a way of life undreamt of by our ancestors. This short article is an attempt to convey something of the history of Edwinsford and its owners, and to recapture a fleeting glance at one of the great houses of Carmarthenshire.

The Williams Family
The Edwinsford genealogy takes us back to remote period in Welsh history.² The Williams family of Rhydodin claimed descent from princely and royal blood. Through Rhys ap Tewdwr, they descended from Hywel Dda and Rhodri Mawr, and through Ellen wife of Llywelyn ap Phylip from Henry I of England. It will be recalled that Nest the famous daughter of Rhys ap Tewdwr had many paramours, and was clearly a woman of great charm and beauty.³ Not without reason was she known as the 'Helen of Wales', and her numerous offspring included Angharad the mother of Giraldus Cambrensis, Henry 'filius regis' her son by Henry I, and also Idio Wyllt, Earl of Desmont, by Sutrick Centrick or Wygen - Irish adventurer.⁴ Idio Wyllt gave assistance to Rhys ap Tewdwr against the Normans, and for his services was given the lordship of Llywel. Dwnn calls him "Eidio Wyllt Arglwydd Llywel"⁵ It was one of Idio's descendants, Trahaearn, who married Joan, daughter and co-heiress of Gruffydd ap Meurig Goch of Rhydodin.

Through the centuries the uchelwyr of Edwinsford married into other famous Welsh houses, such as, — the Morgans of Tredegar, the Vaughans of Golden Grove and the Philipps clan of Cilsant. We read, for example of one Dafydd ap Llywelyn of Edwinsford who married Angharad, daughter and heiress of Sir Morgan Maredudd, Knight, Lord of Tredegar. Again, Rhys ap William married Gwenillian daughter of Hywel ap Morgan Fychan.

At a later period, David ap Rhys ap William, Esquire, of Rhydodin married Jane daughter of David Phillips of Cilsant. In 1600 their son Rhys Williams, who by now had adopted the English mode of expressing his patronymic, further enlarged his estates by marriage to Jane daughter and co-heiress of Thomas Fychan or Vaughan of Llether Cadfan in the parish of Llangathen.

Llether Cadfan had been an important house in medieval times, and was owned by the Vaughans, who were as influential here as in other parts of Carmarthenshire.⁶ The north chapel in Llangathen Church is known as the Cadfan Chapel, and was at one time the freehold of the family.⁷ Cadfan and its environs had also other claims to fame, for this was the reputed site of a memorable contest in Welsh history — the battle of Coed Llathen. It was here in Whitsun week 1257 that the Welsh fought against the troops of King Henry III, who were led by Stephen Bauzan one of the King's most experienced commanders. But the English were completely routed and Bauzan himself was killed.⁸ Tradition says that the names of the fields in the neighbourhood recall the disastrous defeat of the English. Thus we have cae dial (field of vengeance), ) cae yr ochain (field of groaning), cae tranc (field of death), llain dwng (field of oaths), congl y waedd (corner of shouting) and they strongly suggest a disaster of some magnitude which has long survived in popular memory.⁹ Again, Nant Steffanau, the brook that drains the valley from Broad Oak to Pentrefelin, may well remind us of the terrible retribution which overtook Stephen Bauzan.

But to return to the Williams family of Rhydodin. Rhys Williams was High Sheriff of Carmarthenshire in 1614, and thereby held a position of power and authority, in that the custody of the county was committed to him by the Crown. And from now on the family was destined to play a prominent part in the social and political life of Carmarthenshire.¹⁰

Rhys Williams was succeeded by Nicholas Williams, who married a daughter of Sir Marmaduke Lloyd, Knight, of Maesyfelin, Cardiganshire. Through him the family continued to hold influence, and Nicholas Williams held the office of High Sheriff in 1665. In those days families vied with one another for royal favour and patronage, and the result was that Rice Williams son of Nicholas Williams received a Knighthood. Sir Rice was twice married. Firstly he married Joan daughter of Sir Roger Lort, Baronet, of Stackpole, Pembrokeshire. She died without leaving issue, and his second wife was Mary the daughter and co-heiress of John Vaughan, Esquire, of Llanelli. In fact this lady was a great niece of the 1st Earl of Carbery.

Sir Rice served as High Sheriff in 1650, and died on 27 February 1694. He lies buried in Talley Church, and is remembered chiefly in connection with religious affairs in the county following the Declaration of Indulgence of 1687. The object of this measure by James II appeared to be the suspension of laws against Roman Catholics and Dissenters, and ostensibly allowed them full rights to hold civil and military posts. But in fact the Kings true purpose was to retain all his powers under the royal prerogative, and in this way James thought he could restore Catholic worship, even in the teeth of national sentiment. Many Protestant Dissenters realised what was afoot, and even Anglican officers of the crown feared what was to come. In the counties Lords and Deputy Lieutenants, Justices of the Peace and others were asked whether they would support the measure. Most replies were in the negative and of the Welsh justices two gave very qualified assent.¹¹ This showed the way the wind was blowing. We find that Sir Rice Williams of Edwinsford would only agree provided "the preservation of ye Protestant religion" was guaranteed. He expressed his opinion in clear terms and frankly stated that the existing penal laws against Dissenters were contrary to the primitive principles of Christianity. But his protest was a voice crying in the wilderness.

Sir Rice Williams left five sons — Nicholas, John, Walter, Charles and Thomas. His younger brother John possessed an adventurous spirit and distinguished himself in the Royal Navy. Nicholas was created a Baronet by Queen Anne in 1708. He followed his ancestors by becoming High Sheriff for the county and represented it in three successive parliaments. By a deed dated 16 April 1734 he was appointed Chamberlain of the town and borough of Brecon, and of the counties of Brecon, Radnor and Glamorgan. On 9 July of the same year a warrant was signed authorising the Receiver of Wales to pay Sir Nicholas £100 a year in respect of this office. On 11 June 1736 Sir Nicholas was appointed Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum for Carmarthenshire. This office originated in 1557 and amongst its obligations was the organisation of the Militia of each shire, the review of men, armour and munitions, and the administration of justice and local government through magistrates virtually appointed by the Lord Lieutenant. This position of trust and responsibility helped to consolidate the rising influence of Edwinsford. Hitherto, the great land-owning family of Vaughan of Golden Grove had held sway during the first half of the eighteenth century. But now new forces were emerging to challenge their power. We read of Philipps of Picton and Cwmgwili, Rice of Dynevor and Williams of Edwinsford jockeying for supremacy as the leaders of rival factions in county politics. Parliamentary elections were in essence contests between squires or their nominees. As early as 1722 Sir Nicholas Williams had ousted Griffith Rice as Member of Parliament for the county. But the contest had not been straightforward. Rice the sitting member had polled 592 votes and Sir Nicholas was defeated with 587. On petition the latter gained the seat and the Under Sheriff was fined £500 for "foul play". In 1727 Sir Nicholas retained his seat against Richard Gwynne of Taliaris. Again in 1734 he defeated Sir Edward Mansel after what was regarded as "sham opposition". in effect the Whig power represented by Sir Nicholas prevailed against the Tory faction from 1722 until his death in 1745.

Sir Nicholas' private life was rather less auspicious. His wife was Jane Mary Cocks daughter of Charles Cocks and niece of the celebrated Lord Chancellor, Lord Somers. On 25 June 1720 articles of separation were drawn up between them, by which he allowed her £100 a year. She was to take with her "Her cloaths, Towells and also her horse and furniture thereunto belonging, which she usually rides upon, and also her Dressing Glass, Comb Box, Powder Box and Patch Box, and her Books, etc ". But no further steps were taken to annul the marriage.

Sir Nicholas died without issue on 19 July 1745 in his sixty-fifth year, and was buried in the family vault at Talley. He was regarded as a great personality, who had represented the county for twenty-three years in Parliament, and one who was a champion of truth and liberty. His memorial in Talley Church records that "his unshaken virtue and integrity in an age of falsehood and corruption will be remembered to after ages". If we are to believe all that this grandiose memorial says, he was humane, charitable, benevolent and well endowed with Christian virtues. It appears that he was a great sportsman and his silver hunting horn used to be preserved at Edwinsford. One of the picturesque heights overlooking the mansion and the Cothi valley is known as Pigyn Syr Nicholas. It was during his lifetime that much was done to improve the house and gardens at Edwinsford. At the beginning of the seventeenth century the nucleus of the present masion was built, replacing the old Welsh house of Rhydodin mentioned by Lewis Glyn Cothi.¹²

But the time had come to rebuild and embellish the existing house and its surroundings. Of Sir Nicholas' renovations at Edwinsford the most notable was the apartment known as Sir Nicholas' Room with its rib and panel plaster ceiling. An early dormer window with leaden quarries remains and provides an interesting example of the decorative taste of the early eighteenth century. Again, leaden statuettes were placed on the ridge line of the roof and in the ornamental grounds of the house. These figures were usually of local casting, and in all likelihood the Edwinsford examples were executed at Carmarthen during the years 1700—1710. There are two very spirited casts of Mercury — remarkably fine examples of this art — and a figure of Sir Nicholas Williams' gamekeeper with his gun to his shoulder and spaniel dog at his heel. There was, it is said, a similar figure of the dairy maid of the day, which was blown down and damaged beyond repair early in the eighteenth century. There is in addition a leaden figure of a most truculent looking boar, which formerly occupied a site in the farm-yard. In the garden is a fine old sundial, with the inscription — "Sir Nicholas Williams, Baronet, 1710" and the Williams' crest, a lion rampart, and motto, Mea Virtute me involvo._¹³ Sir Nicholas, as we have seen, died without issue and was succeeded by his brother Thomas Williams. Actually Sir Nicholas had four brothers in all: (i) John, who married Elizabeth daughter of Thomas Johnes of Dolaucothi and Llanfair Clydogau, who died _sine prole in 1729, (ii) Walter, (iii) Charles, (iv) Thomas, of Great Russell Street, Middlesex.

On 10 March 1746 he succeeded his brother as Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum. He was also appointed Chancellor and Chamberlain of the counties of Carmarthen, Pembroke, and Cardigan. Thomas married firstly Arabella daughter and co-heiress of John Vaughan of Court Derllys, who died without issue. Secondly he married Anne, daughter of William Singleton of London, by whom he had two daughters. Bridget, the elder, married Robert Bankes Hodgkinson, Esquire, of Overton and also of Rhydodin in the right of his wife. Hodgkinson was High Sheriff of Carmarthenshire in 1784 and member of Parliament for Wareham in the county of Dorset. He died in 1792, and while he resided in Carmarthenshire took part in political and public affairs, and made some improvements at Edwinsford. He arranged for the Edwinsford bridge across the Cothi to be rebuilt, transforming it into one span in place of the two it formerly had. There is a stone upon the parapet which reads: "This Bridge is the sole Property of the Family of Edwinsford. Rebuilt by Robert Bankes Hodgkinson, Esq., 1783." The work of rebuilding was actually carried out by one of the Edwards brothers of Pontypridd, whose eminent father William Edwards is remembered as the architect of the famous Pontypridd Bridge.

Advent of the Hamlyn
As Hodgkinson and Bridget Williams died without issue the Edwinsford estate passed to Thomas Williams' younger daughter Arabella who had married Sir James Hamlyn, 1st Baronet, of Clovelly Court, Devonshire.

At this time Clovelly was a small fishing village situated on a romantic steep descending to the southern shore of Bideford Bay.¹⁴ The manor of Clovelly was an ancient demesne of the crown, and was settled by William the Conqueror on his consort Matilda. In the reign of Richard II it was possessed by Sir John Cary, Knight.

Subsequently the Clovelly estate was purchased by one Zachary Hamlyn of Lincoln's Inn for the sum of £9,426 and devised by him to his great nephew James Hammett. The latter took the name of Hamlyn by deed of George III in 1795. On 11 June 1762 he had married, Arabella, younger daughter of Thomas Williams of Edwinsford and niece of the great Sir Nicholas Williams. On 7 July 1795 a baronetcy was granted to James Hamlyn, and the marriage between him and Arabella Williams brought about the merger of the Edwinsford and Clovelly estates for generations.

Sir James Hamlyn represented the county in the two parliaments of April 1793 and June 1796, in the first instance vice the Hon. George Talbot Rice on his accession to the peerage. In the 1796 election Hamlyn had to contest against Magens Dorien Magens, a wealthy London banker, who had married into the Dynevor family. It was during his period as M.P. that Hamlyn obtained his baronetcy, and to this added the offices of Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum. Sir James took an enlightened interest in the Edwinsford estate and its management. He carried out much rebuilding there and erected a new stable block in 1802. A tablet above the archway records the fact.

At this time there was much coming and going between Edwinsford and Clovelly and Sir James Hamlyn kept in constant communication with his agent and bailiff at Edwinsford, David Thomas. From the following two letters we infer that the family sometimes travelled by sea to Clovelly, was much interested in agricultural pursuits and enjoyed the services of a Welsh harper.

Dear Mr. Thomas,
I received your letter and gave that enclosed to Mr. Williams. He was here for a day, and is gone to Clifton to escort his wife here, and I expect them all the latter end of next week.

The Vessel (Mr. Philipps' Yacht) came here without-the-things sent to Carmarthen. She is returned to Wales, and is expected to come here again very soon.

You do not say whether you sent the Cradle Spit, and I do not see it in the list of things at Carmarthen.

I hope the fine weather we have lately had has enabled you to finish your tillage on Brinabbon. I have had six and eight ploughs a day, and have nearly finished 26 acres in fine order.

I hope this will find the children all well and very good. Your health I hope, too, to have a good account of.

Yours very truly,

JAS. HAMLYN.

Dear Mr Thomas,
You'l be surprised to receive this at the hand of my Coachman. He is sent for my Chariot and the Curricle with the pair of Coach Horses, and the Black Mare and Morgan, with the proper apparatus of Harness, etc., which Richard will of course select, viz., the leading Harness, short traces, long reins and small pieces of leather that makes the Curricle harness answer the purpose of Coach harness.

Two four horse whips and the white, one pair of horse whip, to be packed in the long box that is in the Sportsman's Hall. The Harper and Harp will travel in my chaise. Dio to come with Richard, and of course to drive either the chaise or Curricle as they can best manage the arrangement.

I expect Mrs Williams [i.e. his daughter-in-law, Diana] here on Tuesday next, and hope all things turning out well, that the importation from Wales will arrive on Friday next. Yours very truly,

JAS. HAMLYN.¹⁵

Sir James Hamlyn died in London on 8 June 1811 aged 76 and was buried in the Clovelly family vault. His wife, Dame Arabella, had predeceased him in May 1797 in the fifty-eighth year of her age and was buried at Talley.

There were four children of this marriage — James, Zachary, Priscilla and Arabella. On the death of his mother, James, being the only surviving son and heir apparent, assumed the surname and arms of Williams by a grant from Garter King of Arms dated 14 March 1798.

He succeeded to the title and estates on his father's death in 1811. James Hamlyn Williams married on 22 June 1789, Diana Anne daughter of Abraham Whittaker Esquire of Stratford, Essex. He was elected M.P. for Carmarthen in 1802 and died in December 1829 at Clovelly, where he was buried.

The election of 1802-3 has been regarded as one of the most bitter in the parliamentary annals of Carmarthenshire. Since 1793 the county seat had been held by Sir James Hamlyn of Edwinsford, who, as we have seen, had married the ultimate heiress to that estate. He was a member of the Tory faction, but in 1802 the Whigs introduced a new candidate for the county in the person of Sir William Paxton of Middleton Hall. Paxton was a London banker who had made a princely fortune in India and had settled at Middleton Hall about 1794. He was a burgess of Carmarthen and Mayor in 1802 and so wielded much influence. The election opened at Llandeilo on 17 July 1802 and the candidates were James Hamlyn Williams nominated by his father Sir James Hamlyn and William Lewes of Llysnewydd, opposed by William Paxton, whose sponsors were J. G. Philipps of Cwmgwili and J. W. Hughes of Tregib. At the close of the day the poll stood — Williams 228, Paxton 87. On 31 July it was reported that the contest was being carried on with much party violence, and that the progress of the poll was slow. The candidates had agreed to vote in 'tallies', i.e. batches of equal number, registered in rotation. Paxton represented a party known as the 'Blues' while Williams had the support of the 'Reds'. Voters were brought from all parts of the kingdom, and finally, after a poll lasting fifteen days, the election came to an end with the return of 'Williams, with an official poll of 1,217 votes as against Paxton's 1,110.

But this was only the beginning of further party strife. Bitter scenes followed in Carmarthen town as rival factions fought against one another. The candidates were chaired by their supporters and carried 'in trono' through the town. Fighting broke out and a violent conflict followed between "Reds" and "Blues". Lord Dynevor was Williams' chief supporter, while Paxton had more influential backing. At a dinner held later at the Bear Inn, with J. G. Philipps in the chair, some "150 of the principal Gentlemen and Freeholders of the county" were present. The health of Lords Cawdor, Milford and Kensington, Sir John Stepney and John Vaughan of Golden Grove was drunk. The meeting broke up "assured that the favourite candidate of the Independent interests must ultimately be seated". Thus ended the first act in Lecsiwn Fawr, which is said to have cost Paxton £15,690 4s. 2d. All public-houses were thrown open and amongst the items in the enormous bill were: 11,070 breakfasts, 36,901 dinners, 684 suppers, 25,275 gallons of ale, 11,068 bottles of spirits, 8,879 bottles of porter, 460 bottles of sherry, 509 bottles of cider. Milk punch accounted for 18 guineas and even ribbons cost £786.

Having spent so much Paxton was not going to give in easily.¹⁶ Consequently on 24 November he petitioned the House, alleging that Thomas Owen, the sheriff, had acted with great partiality towards Williams. Many of the votes were queried and some observers, such as Mansel Philipps, plainly stated that both Williams and Paxton were guilty of "notorious bribery and corruption" and that neither deserved to be returned.

Meanwhile James Hamlyn Williams was not perturbed, as may be seen from this letter written by B. Foard, Bailiff at Clovelly, to David Thomas his counterpart at Edwinsford.

Dear Sir,
I received your letter this day — all is safe arrived — they was not three hours a coming from Swansey to Illfordcoomb. Mr. Williams arrived hear last Tuesday in grate spirits. Likewise James and Chals. Mrs. Williams is at Tunbridge Wells. Mr. Williams is in grate spirits about the Peticion as he says all the House of Commons laugh at the Peticion he thinks it will not come on till April or May. Mr. Williams has tow of the best Counsel in London but they are to have Twenty Guineas a day each as soon as the Peticion comes on, I am afraid Sir James will not go to London this year, but Mr. Williams family come here as soon as they leave London so I may not expect to see Wales again for some time. Davye desires you to lett his wife knowe that he is safe arrived here. I think he will be here about a month.

Pray deliver inclosed as they are directed and you oblige.

Your humble servant,

B. FOARD.

Mr. Williams was at Church today the bells rang all day likewise evirybody men and women was drest in Read Ribbons in complament to him so it looks like an election hear. Mr. Williams has jest received a fresh Peticion from London. Mansel Philips as sent it in accusing Boath Mr. Williams and Paxton of Bribyry.

Eventually the dispute was considered by a committee of the House. It was decided that Paxton had not made out a case against the Sheriff, and Williams was declared elected on 6 April 1803. Some months previously James Hamlyn, junior, son of the contestant had written to David Thomas in the following terms:

Dear Sir,
My father has received your letter and I cannot omit the first opportunity of thanking you for the contents. I am very sorry I had not the pleasure of seeing you these holidays. I hope nothing will prevent my passing some time with you at old Edwinsford in the Summer, and that we shall be able to talk over the defeat of the Nabob [sc. Sir William Paxton] and rejoice together on having verified the old Welsh saying of -

"Ni chollodd Rhydodin erioed".

Yours most truly,

JAMES HAMLYN, Junior.

...
to top